Vitale ignites Versace, Trotter reboots Bottega Veneta
Dario Vitale's inaugural collection for Versace decisively answered any speculation about the brand's future, affirming that its provocative edge is here to stay. Taking the helm as the first creative director from outside the Versace family, Vitale made it clear that sensuality remains a core tenet of the legendary Italian label.
Backstage, he clarified his interpretation of this theme. For Vitale, the focus is less on the act of sex itself and more on the lingering experience—the tactile memories and the feeling that remains the next day. It's an exploration of the idea of intimacy rather than a literal depiction. This philosophy translated into a collection filled with suggestive designs, including taut denim worn low and unfastened at the waist, daring dresses secured by a single, strategic button, and intricately jeweled bras with open backs.
This bold debut marks a significant moment for the house. Vitale, who previously honed his skills as the womenswear design director at Miu Miu, steps into a role long held by the Versace family. Following the Prada Group's acquisition of the brand in April, Donatella Versace transitioned to a chief brand ambassador role, though she was not present at Friday's show.
Vitale's inspiration, however, bypassed Donatella's celebrated tenure, reaching back to the formative years under the brand's founder, Gianni Versace. The 42-year-old designer drew from personal memories of his mother, a devoted client in the 1980s and 1990s, recalling an attitude of controlled, distinctly Italian fierceness. This influence was evident in high-waisted denim fit for Miami Beach, form-fitting muscle T-shirts, dazzling harlequin sequin dresses, and patchworked leather bomber jackets. The collection's powerful shoulder silhouettes captivated a star-studded front row that included Bianca Jagger, Hyunjin, and Jon Hamm, who praised the revival of Gianni's iconic style.
Granted full access to Gianni Versace's personal archives, Vitale chose to immerse himself in the man behind the clothes. He studied Gianni's personal letters, collected artwork, and even the stationery he used, seeking to understand his spirit through his belongings rather than just his fashion collections. This deep dive into the world of Versace informed the show's immersive staging at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana art gallery. The space was transformed into a series of intimate, imperfect micro-sets—from writing desks to unmade beds—inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini's 1969 film Teorema. Vitale aims to introduce a similar sense of beautiful chaos, envisioning the brand's iconic "gods and goddesses" descending from their mythical realm to engage in worldly affairs.
The weekend also marked another major debut, with British designer Louise Trotter presenting her first collection as creative director for Bottega Veneta. Taking over from Matthieu Blazy, who is poised for his own premiere at Chanel, Trotter embarked on a journey back to the brand's origins.
Her exploration began in the company's archives in Veneto, where she identified the foundational period between 1966 and 1977 as her primary focus. This era, she noted, was characterized by female liberation and the establishment of the house's signature woven intrecciato leather technique.
On the runway, this translated into a collection that balanced heritage with modernity. Models wore oversized tailored pieces accented with glossy leather lapels, luxurious nappa leather trench coats, and the romantic, body-skimming dresses for which the brand is renowned. A forward-looking spirit emerged through innovative materials, most notably in oversized sweaters crafted from recycled fiberglass. These pieces, rendered in vibrant primary colors, added a dynamic and bouncy energy to the show.
Having previously led creative teams at Joseph and Lacoste, Trotter expressed immense excitement about the resources now at her disposal. The 56-year-old designer described the experience as being in a "candy box," praising the incredible craftsmanship and the enthusiastic, experimental attitude of the Bottega Veneta artisans.
